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Summer Cruise

Robin Barr Sussman | May 29, 2018 | Feature Features

Mediterranean cuisine meets the Galleria at the first Texas branch of New York's Fig & Olive.
Seafood paella, which also comes in a version with black squid ink

Like a calm ray of Proven├žal sunshine beaming over a roaring sea of Galleria traffic, retail madness and battalions of businessmen, new Fig & Olive provides a Mediterranean oasis amid the city’s second busiest business district. With its clean, bright setting and devotion to the freshest ingredients, it’s a true taste of the French Riviera, smack-dab in the center of Houston.

The touted health benefits of the Mediterranean diet—one emphasizing olive oil, whole grains, fish, fruits and vegetables—are legion, and they’ve been attracting crowds from New York City to Newport Beach, Calif. At each of the concept’s eight spots, unique menus blend the refined flavors of Southern France, Spain and Italy with local influences. As the state’s first location, this spot has the designation of showing how Texas meets the Med.

Bathed in natural light from windows overlooking an alfresco terrace with potted olive trees, the chic open space flows gracefully with an expansive bar area, whitewashed chairs and linen-covered tables, blond wood floors and yards of gleaming white marble. Banquettes with fluffy coral pillows are cleverly trimmed with fresh rosemary planter boxes. Back toward the kitchen are semiprivate rooms that can be opened for regular service or closed for special events. It’s packed most nights with singles, shopping pals and families, and though the friendly staff doesn’t push for your table, it’s best to make reservations.

Executive chef Tommy Laczynski, formerly with Truluck’s and True Food Kitchen in Austin, has created many dishes exclusive to the Houston location, including a signature steak frites, which stars a 20-ounce ribeye, as well as other entrees like balsamic-glazed short ribs and cured duck. But don’t get hooked on any one dish. “We’ll be changing the menu seasonally and lightening up for summer,” Laczynski says. “Some gluten-free options [will] replace bread, and [we’re] adding whole fish and new meat entrees.”

The menu invites you on a jaunt around the Southern European coast. Servers continuously trot out the signature crostini, which come on shareable plates in combos like fig, manchego and marcona almond or smoked salmon with creme fraiche and caviar. They’re ideal small bites to wash down with a crisp Sancerre, one of the many good wines by the glass. Or hold out for the gratis rosemary focaccia delivered with three olive oils for dipping, including a lovely blood orange-infused option. The octopus carpaccio—also great to share—will convert anyone who doesn’t like the texture of octopus. Shaved tissue-thin, the dazzling mosaic of marinated octopus with a captivating black olive dust, fried capers and piquillo pepper puree is meltingly tender.


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