BY Robin Barr Sussman | June 6, 2019 | Food & Drink
“Pickling and preserving is an integral part of each dish, and we source only quality ingredients within 250 miles of Houston,” says chef Jonny Rhodes.
Jonathan (Jonny) Rhodes, co-owner and chef of Indigo and a 2019 James Beard Award Rising Star Chef semifinalist, uses his thought-provoking tasting menus to educate guests about African American history. “Each dish is created around a story, and I present the story with each course,” says Rhodes, who grew up in the Trinity Gardens neighborhood, where his Indigo space sat abandoned for 25 years. He joined the Marines at 18 and zipped through formal chef training at The Art Institute of Houston before cutting his teeth with stints at Oxheart and New York’s Gramercy Tavern. Intrigued guests visit his intimate 13-seat restaurant from as far as Copenhagen, Australia and Korea to experience courses such as potato ash cakes made with spuds buried in ash for three to 10 months to preserve; local line-caught fish with preserved-ramp ranch dressing; and aged pastrami with sorghum-stewed beets. Everything is prepared by Rhodes and his wife and co-owner, Chana, in a shoebox kitchen using only charcoal and wood for cooking. Expect two menus a night—an Herbivore and a Pescatarian—with another menu coming in September, dubbed The Classic, spotlighting classic soul food. Look for the Banana Republic of America on your visit: An avocado dessert parfait inside a faux avocado half made with a chocolate shell and a chocolate avocado “pit” stuffed with strawberry preserves. Ingenious. 517 Berry Road, 832.582.6388, htxindigo.com
Photography Courtesy Of: candace moore