BY Robin Barr Sussman | September 5, 2019 | Food & Drink
Reef’s splurgeworthy Crab Fat & Dough
One Fifth Gulf Coast (1658 Westheimer Road, 713.955.1024), the newest chapter in chef Chris Shepherd’s five-restaurants-in-five-years project, takes a deep dive into the waters and terrain of the Gulf Coast states. Think Texas stone crabs (and other “shells”); hearth-charred okra and hush puppies (small plates); roasted flounder almondine (“big things”) and pineapple upside-down dessert.
After being closed for nearly two years post-Hurricane Harvey, Reef (2600 Travis St., 713.526.8282) is back. Guests returning to chef Bryan Caswell’s seafood shrine and 3rd Bar should anticipate a totally new menu and fresh look. Crab Fat & Dough (crab baked in bread); caviar service with Kennebec potatoes; Texas red hot sausage and gribiche sauce; and grilled cobia with shaved beet salad and XO sauce are a few inventive newbies.
Texas stone crab claws from the new One Fifth Gulf Coast
Bardot (1070 Dallas St., 713.242.8555) at Hotel Alessandra is dishing a taste of the Mediterranean with small plates from Spain on Tuesdays, Italy on Thursdays, and France on Fridays through September all day. At Lucienne, the hotel’s signature restaurant, exec-chef Jose Hernandez has luxe new plates to try: lobster with caviar and macerated strawberries; pheasant with cherry sauce and celery root; glazed pork belly with corn esquites—plus wine pairs. Don’t miss the thin apple tart with Calvados sauce!
Former Danton’s Gulf Coast Seafood and Steaks is now Eugene’s Gulf Coast Cuisine (1985 Welch St., 713.807.8883) in the shuttered and now renovated Mockingbird Bistro space. Its menu features Danton’s classics like Kyle’s crab salad and the signature Bloody Danton. Expect a lively oyster bar, as well as items inspired by the family including the Teas Special—a spin on grilled cheese.
Warehouse 72’s herb-roasted lamb lollipops with oak wood smoked carrots, sweet potato, spinach and hazelnut pesto, sumac and mint.
Warehouse 72 (7620 Katy Freeway, Ste. 305, 833.365.7272), Spaghetti Warehouse’s upscale sibling, has bowed in West Houston. Artistic Mediterranean dishes by exec-chef Jaime Salazar (recently with Brasserie 19) include Australian lamb lollipops, Za’atar roasted chicken, and signature angel hair pasta with truffle cream sauce. The industrial-designed space includes kitchen-facing chef tables offering a tasting menu and a “check-in” lobby for loyalty members.
Photography Courtesy Of: Shawn Chippendale; julie soefer; Adrian Verde